Money & Equipment

Money in the campaign is measured in gold pieces (g.p.). The following table has the exchange rate between g.p. and other currencies.

 

Standard Exchange Rates

	Exchange Value
Coin	CP	SP	EP	GP	PP
Copper Piece (CP) =	1	1/10	1/100	1/200	1/1000
Silver Piece (SP) =	10	1	1/5	1/20	1/100
Electrum Piece (EP) =	100	10	1	1⁄2	1/10
Gold Piece (GP) =	200	20	2	1	1/5
Platinum Piece (PP) =	1000	100	10	5	1

Starting Money

Beginning characters start out the campaign with the following funds:

Initial Character Funds

Character Group	Die Range
Priest	3d6 x 10	g.p.
Warrior	5d4 x 10	g.p.
Wizard	2d4 x 10	g.p.
Rogue	2d6 x 10	g.p.

Multi-class characters use the most advantageous die range of their classes.

Equipment Lists

The price given for each item in the lists is its average price, the amount you can expect the item to cost in a normal small to medium city like Byrne. However, large cities, barren wildernesses, and places with brave adventurers carrying bags full of gold are not normal economies. In these places you may find yourself paying more (very rarely less) than the amount listed.

Weapons

The Weapons table below lists more than just the price of each item. It also gives other game information. Since each weapon is different, you should note this information separately for each weapon your character purchases or finds.

Weapon Size: All weapons are classed according to a size category--S, M, L, G, or H. Small (S) weapons are approximately two feet or less in size; medium (M) weapons are two to five feet long; large (L) weapons are generally six feet or greater in length. Giant (G) and huge (H) weapons are not found on the lists, since these are items normally used by ogres, giants, and even greater creatures. They are not items of equipment a PC can normally buy!

Harry the halfling (size S) can use a short sword with no difficulty (a size S weapon), or a long sword with two hands (a size M weapon), but a glaive (size L) is just too large for him to wield. Likewise, he can use a short bow but is unable to handle a long bow.

A character can always wield a weapon equal to his own size or less.

Type: Weapons are classified according to types--bludgeoning (B), piercing (P), and slashing (S). These types are used to determine armor type modifiers (if these are used). Weapons vs. Armor Type is explained in the Combat section.

Speed Factor: Weapon speed is a relative measure of the clumsiness of the weapon. The lower the number, the quicker and easier the weapon is to use. Weapon speed is explained in the Combat section.

Damage: All weapons are rated for the amount of damage they can cause to small- and medium-sized creatures (S-M) and larger-than-man-sized creatures (L).

Weapons

Item	Cost	Weight (lbs.)	Size	Type	Speed Factor	Damage
						S-M	L
Battle axe	5 gp	7	M	S	7	1d8	1d8
Blowgun	5 gp	2	L	--	5	--	--
Barbed Dart	1 sp	*	S	P	--	1d3	1d2
Needle	2 cp	*	S	P	--	1	1
Bow	--	--	--	--	--	--	--
Short bow	30 gp	2	M	--	7	--	--
Long bow	75 gp	3	L	--	8	--	--
Composite short bow	75 gp	2	M	--	6	--	--
Composite long bow	100 gp	3	L	--	7	--	--
Arrow	3sp / 12	2	S	P	--	1d6	1d6
Club	--	3	M	B	4	1d6	1d3
Crossbow	--	--	--	--	--	--	--
Heavy crossbow	50 gp	14	M	--	10	--	--
Light crossbow	35 gp	7	M	--	7	--	--
Hand crossbow	300 gp	3	S	--	5	--	--
Heavy quarrel	2 gp / 12	4	S	P	--	1d4+1	1d6+1
Light quarrel	1 gp / 12	3	S	P	--	1d4	1d4
Hand quarrel	5 gp / 12	*	S	P	--	1d3	1d2
Dagger or dirk	2 gp	1	S	P	2	1d4	1d3
Dart	5 sp	_	S	P	2	1d3	1d2
Flail, Footman's	15 gp	15	M	B	7	1d6+1	2d4
Flail, Horseman's	8 gp	5	M	B	6	1d4+1	1d4+1
Hand or throwing axe	1 gp	5	M	S	4	1d6	1d4
Harpoon	20 gp	6	L	P	7	2d4	2d6
Javelin	5 sp	2	M	P	4	1d6	1d6
Knife	5 sp	_	S	P/S	2	1d3	1d2
Lance(3)	--	--	--	--	--	--	--
Heavy horse lance	15 gp	15	L	P	8	1d8+1	3d6
Medium horse lance	10 gp	10	L	P	7	1d6+1	2d6
Light horse lance	6 gp	5	L	P	6	1d6	1d8
Jousting lance	20 gp	20	L	P	10	1d3-1	1d2-1
Mace, Footman's	8 gp	10	M	B	7	1d6+1	1d6
Mace, Horseman's	5 gp	6	M	B	6	1d6	1d4
Mancatcher(2)	30 gp	8	L	--	7	--	--
Morning star	10 gp	12	M	B	7	2d4	1d6+1
Pick, Footman's	8 gp	6	M	P	7	1d6+1	2d4
Pick, Horseman's	7 gp	4	M	P	5	1d4+1	1d4
Polearm	--	--	--	--	--	--	--
Awl pike(4)	5 gp	12	L	P	13	1d6	1d12
Bardiche	7 gp	12	L	S	9	2d4	2d6
Bec de corbin	8 gp	10	L	P/B	9	1d8	1d6
Bill-guisarme	7 gp	15	L	P/S	10	2d4	1d10
Fauchard	5 gp	7	L	P/S	8	1d6	1d8
Fauchard-fork	8 gp	9	L	P/S	8	1d8	1d10
Glaive(1)	6 gp	8	L	S	8	1d6	1d10
Glaive-guisarme(1)	10 gp	10	L	P/S	9	2d4	2d6
Guisarme	5 gp	8	L	S	8	2d4	1d8
Guisarme-voulge	8 gp	15	L	P/S	10	2d4	2d4
Halberd	10 gp	15	L	P/S	9	1d10	2d6
Hook fauchard	10 gp	8	L	P/S	9	1d4	1d4
Lucern hammer(4)	7 gp	15	L	P/B	9	2d4	1d6
Military fork(1)	5 gp	7	L	P	7	1d8	2d4
Partisan(4)	10 gp	8	L	P	9	1d6	1d6+1
Ranseur(4)	6 gp	7	L	P	8	2d4	2d4
Spetum(4)	5 gp	7	L	P	8	1d6+1	2d6
Voulge(4)	5 gp	12	L	S	10	2d4	2d4
Quarterstaff	--	4	L	B	4	1d6	1d6
Scourge	1 gp	2	S	--	5	1d4	1d2
Sickle	6 sp	3	S	S	4	1d4+1	1d4
Sling	5 cp.	*	S	--	6	--	--
Sling bullet	1 cp.	_	S	B	--	1d4+1	1d6+1
Sling stone	--	_	S	B	--	1d4	1d4
Spear	--	--	--	--	--	--	--
One-handed	8 sp	5	M	P	6	1d6	1d8
Two-handed	8 sp	5	M	P	6	1d8+1	2d6
Staff sling	2 sp	2	M	--	11	--	--
Sword	--	--	--	--	--	--	--
Bastard sword	--	--	--	--	--	--	--
One-handed	25 gp	10	M	S	6	1d8	1d12
Two-handed	25 gp	10	M	S	8	2d4+1	2d8
Broad sword	10 gp	4	M	S	5	2d4	1d6+1
Katana	80 gp	5	M	S	4	1d8	1d8+1
Khopesh	10 gp	7	M	S	9	2d4	1d6
Long sword	15 gp	4	M	S	5	1d8	1d12
Scimitar	15 gp	4	M	S	5	1d8	1d8
Short sword	10 gp	3	S	P	3	1d6	1d8
Two-hand sword	50 gp	15	L	S	9	1d10	3d6
Trident	15 gp	5	L	P	7	1d6+1	3d4
Warhammer	2 gp	6	M	B	4	1d4+1	1d4
Whip	1 sp	2	M	--	8	1d2	1

* These items weigh little individually. Ten of these weigh one pound.
(1) This weapon inflicts double damage against charging creatures of L or greater size.
(2) This weapon can dismount a rider on a successful hit.
(3) This weapon inflicts double damage when used from the back of a charging mount.
(4) This weapon inflicts double damage when firmly set to receive a charge.

Missile Weapon Ranges

		Range (yards)
Weapon	ROF	Short	Medium	Long
Blowgun	2/1	10	20	30
Comp. long bow	2/1	60	120	210
Comp. short bow	2/1	50	100	180
Longbow	2/1	70	140	210
Short bow	2/1	50	100	150
Club	1	10	20	30
Hand crossbow	1	20	40	60
Heavy crossbow	1/2	80	160	240
Light crossbow	1	60	120	180
Dagger	2/1	10	20	30
Dart	3/1	10	20	40
Hammer	1	10	20	30
Hand axe	1	10	20	30
Harpoon	1	10	20	30
Javelin	1	20	40	60
Knife	2/1	10	20	30
Sling bullet	1	50	100	200
Sling stone	1	40	80	160
Spear	1	10	20	30
Staff sling bullet	2/1	--	30-60	90
Staff sling stone	2/1	--	30-60	90

"ROF" is the rate of fire--how many shots that weapon can fire off in one round. This is independent of the number of melee attacks a character can make in a round.

Each range category (Short, Medium, or Long) includes attacks from distances equal to or less than the given range. Thus, a heavy crossbow fired at a target 136 yards away uses the medium range modifier.

Indoors or underground, ranges are measured in feet instead of yards.

Weapon Descriptions

Bows: Bows come in various shapes and sizes. The power of a bow is measured by its pull. The greater the pull, the more Strength needed to work the bow. Thus, it is possible for characters to have bows that grant them damage bonuses for high Strength (it is assumed the character has chosen a bow that has a greater pull). Likewise, characters with low Strengths suffer their usual penalties when using a bow (they are forced to use weaker bows or simply cannot draw back as far). The pull of a bow seldom prevents a character from using the weapon, only from gaining the full effect. The true test of a character's Strength comes in stringing a bow--the bow of a strong hero may simply be unstringable by a lesser man (as was Odysseus's).

Heavier pull bows are not normally any more expensive than standard bows. The exceptions to this are those bows that enable the fighter to gain bonuses for exceptional Strength (18/01 or greater). These bows must be custom crafted and cost three to five times the normal price. These bows are also difficult to string or use effectively for those without exceptional Strength. These characters must roll a successful bend bars/lift gates roll to string or use such weapons (again, think of the test of the suitors in Odysseus's household).

Crossbow: Strength bonuses or penalties do not apply to crossbows, since these are purely mechanical devices. The hand crossbow is easily held in one hand and cocked with the other. The light crossbow, also called latches, must be braced against an object to be cocked with a lever mounted on the stock. The heavy crossbow, also called arbalest, has a powerful pull and must be cocked with a cranequin (a simple winch or lever) that comes with the weapon. One foot is places in a stirrup at the end of the crossbow while the cranequin is worked. All crossbows fire quarrels or bolts and the correct size must be used with each weapon.

Lance: The different lances are rated according to size and sturdiness. Each type can be used only if the rider is on the same type of horse or a greater one. A man on a light war horse could not use a heavy horse lance, if only because the impact would bowl him and the horse right over! Furthermore, the heavy and jousting lances require that the rider is firmly in a saddle and using stirrups. The jousting lance is a heavy horse lance modified for use in tournaments, in which the desire is not to kill the opponent. The end of the lance is fitted with a special blunted tip intended to lessen the chance of wounds. Of course, good intentions often go awry, so there is still a chance of injury during a joust.

Mancatcher: This item is a highly specialized type of polearm designed to capture without killing a victim. It consists of a long pole with a spring-loaded set of sharpened jaws at the end. The victim is caught between the arms, which then snap shut. The mancatcher is effective only on man-sized creatures. The target is always treated as AC 10, modified for Dexterity. If a hit is scored, the character is caught. The caught victim loses all shield and Dexterity bonuses and can be pushed and pulled about. This causes an automatic 1d2 points of damage per round and gives a 25% chance of pulling the victim to the ground. The victim can escape on a successful bend bars/lift gates roll, although this results in 1d2 points more damage. A common tactic is to use the weapon to pull horsemen off their mounts, then pin them to the ground.

Polearms: A popular group of weapons during the ancient and medieval periods were the polearms. Their length was a distinct advantage and, for the peasant, they were a relatively easy weapon to make. Thus, there came to be an abundance of polearms of different sizes and shapes. Due to their numbers, there is no standard system for naming polearms. The names used in the AD&D game might possibly be applied to other weapons elsewhere.

Because of their length, all polearms are infantry weapons and require two hands to use. They are almost always the weapon of the common peasant and soldier, who, lacking a horse and heavy armor, needs some weapon to keep the enemy's knights at bay. Thus, most polearms are intended to be used in close-packed formations that present a forest of sharp points and wicked blades to any knight foolish enough to charge.

Awl Pike: Essentially this is a long spear 12 to 20 feet long ending in a spike point of tapered spear head. It was a popular weapon during the Renaissance. Since the pike stuck out in front, men could be packed side-by-side in dense formations, and several rows of men could fight. Large blocks of pikemen made formidable troops. However, once the pikemen engaged in close combat, they normally dropped their clumsy awl pikes and fought hand-to-hand with short swords.

Bardiche: One of the simplest of polearms, the bardiche is an elongated battle axe. A large curving axe-head is mounted on the end of a shaft 5 to 8 feet long. It probably grew out of common peasant tools and was popular with them. One relative disadvantage is that the bardiche required more space to wield than a pike or a spear.

Bec de corbin: This was a highly specialized weapon of the upper classes during the Late Middle Ages and the early Renaissance. It is an early can-opener designed specifically to deal with plate armor. The pick or beak is made to punch through plate, while the hammer side can be used to give a stiff blow. The end is fitted with a short blade for dealing with unarmored or helpless foes. The weapon is about eight feet long. Since the weapon relies on impact, a great deal of swinging space is needed.

Bill-guisarme: A particularly bizarre-looking combination weapon, the bill-guisarme is an outgrowth of the common bill hook. Mounted on a seven- to eight-foot-long pole, it has a combination of a heavy cleaver blade, a jutting back spike, and a hook or spike on the end. Thus, it can be used in several different ways. Like most polearms, it requires lots of room to use.

Fauchard: An outgrowth of the sickle and scythe, the fauchard is a long, inward curving blade mounted on a shaft six to eight feet long. It can slash or thrust, although the inward curving point makes thrusting rather ineffective. Its advantage is that a peasant can easily convert his common scythe into this weapon of war.

Fauchard-fork: This is an attempted improvement on the fauchard, adding a long spike or fork to the back of the blade. Supposedly this improves the thrusting ability of the weapon. It is still an inefficient weapon.

Glaive: One of the most basic polearms, the glaive is a single-edged blade mounted on an eight- to ten-foot-long shaft. While not the most efficient weapon, it is relatively easy to make and use. Normally the blade turns outward to increase the cutting area until it almost resembles a cleaver or axe.

Glaive-guisarme: Another combination weapon, this one takes the basic glaive and adds a spike or hook to the back of the blade. In theory, this increases the usefulness of the weapon although its actual application is somewhat questionable.

Guisarme: Thought to have derived from a pruning hook, this is an elaborately curved heavy blade. While convenient and handy, it is not very effective.

Guisarme-voulge: This weapon has a modified axe blade mounted on an eight-foot-long shaft. The end of the blade tapers to a point for thrusting and a back spike is fitted for punching through armor. Sometimes this spike is replaced by a sharpened hook for dismounting riders.

Halberd: After the awl pike and the bill, this was one of the most popular weapons of the Middle Ages. Fixed on a shaft five to eight feet long is a large axe blade, angled for maximum impact. The end of the blade tapers to a long spear point or awl pike. On the back is a hook for attacking armor or dismounting riders. Originally intended to defeat cavalry, it is not tremendously successful in that role since it lacks the reach of the pike and needs considerable room to swing. It found new life against blocks of pikemen. Should the advance of the main attack stall, halberdiers issue out of the formation and attack the flanks of the enemy. The pikemen with their overlong weapons are nearly defenseless in such close combat.

Hook fauchard: This combination weapon is another attempted improvement to the fauchard. A back hook is fitted to the back of the blade, supposedly to dismount horsemen. Like the fauchard, this is not a tremendously successful weapon.

Lucern hammer: This weapon is similar to the bec de corbin. Fitted with a shaft up to ten feet long, it is usually found in the hands of the common soldier. Like the bec de corbin, its main purpose is to punch through armor. The end is fitted with the long point of an awl pike to hold off enemy cavalry.

Military fork: This is one of the simplest modifications of a peasant's tool since it is little more than a pitchfork fixed to a longer shaft. With tines strengthened and straightened, the military fork serves well. The need for cutting and cleaving eventually often results in combining the fork with other weapons.

Partisan: Shorter than the awl pike but longer than the spear, the partisan is a broad spear-head mounted on an eight-foot-long shaft. Two smaller blades project out from the base of the main blade, just to increase damage and trap weapons. Since it is a thrusting weapon, it can be used in closely packed formations.

Ranseur: Very much like the partisan, the ranseur differs in that the main blade is thinner and the projecting blades extended more like tines of a fork. These can trap a weapon and sometimes punch through armor.

Spetum: The spetum is a modification of the normal spear. The shaft increases to eight to ten feet and side blades are added. Some have blades that angle back, increasing the damage when pulling the weapon out of a wound. These blades can also trap and block weapons or catch and hold an opponent.

Voulge: The voulge, like the bardich, is a variation on the axe and the cleaver. The voulge is little more than a cleaver on the end of a long (seven- to eight-foot) pole. It is a popular weapon, easy to make and simple to learn. It is also called the Lochaber axe.

Scourge: This wicked weapon is a short whip with several thongs or tails. Each thong is studded with metal barbs, resulting in a terrible lash. It is sometimes used as an instrument of execution.

Sword, Bastard: This sword is similar to a long sword in size and weight, but has a longer hilt. It can be used one- or two-handed. Use the speed factor and damage appropriate to the grip. If it is used two-handed, your character cannot employ a shield.

Sword, Khopesh: This is an Egyptian weapon. A khopesh has about six inches of handle and quillons. Its blade is then straight from the quillons for about two feet. The blade becomes sickle-shaped at this point, being about two additional feet long but effectively extending the overall length of the sword by only 1-1⁄2 feet. This makes the khopesh both heavy and unwieldy, difficult to employ properly, and slow to recover, particularly after a badly missed blow. Its sickle-like portion can snag an opponent or an opposing weapon.

Armor

You are going to want your player character to buy armor, if he is allowed to use any. Armor is the easiest and cheapest way to improve your character's chance of surviving the more violent dangers of the adventuring life. Clearly, the better the armor the character possesses, the less likely he is to be hurt. Armor protection is measured by Armor Class (AC), a number rating; the higher the Armor Class number, the better the protection. The table below lists the values for all the types of armor found in the equipment lists.

Armor

Armor	Cost		Weight in lbs	Time to Don in rounds	AC Rating
Shield, Buckler	3	g.p.	3	--	+1 1x/rd
Shield, small, wooden	1	g.p.	5	--	+1 2x/rd
Shield, small	5	g.p.	8	--	+1 2x/rd
Shield, medium	10	g.p.	12	--	+1
Shield, large	15	g.p.	15	--	+1, +2 vs. Missile
Padded	4	g.p.	10	1	12
Leather	5	g.p.	15	1	12
Studded Leather	15	g.p.	25	1	13
Ring Mail	30	g.p.	30	2	13
Hide	--		30	1	14
Scale Mail	45	g.p.	40	2*	14
Brigandine	45	g.p.	35	2*	14
Chain Mail	75	g.p.	40	2*	15
Splint Mail	80	g.p.	45	3*	16
Banded Mail	90	g.p.	35	3*	16
Plate Mail	400	g.p.	50	1d4+3**	17
Field Plate	2000	g.p.	60	1d6+4**	18
Full Plate	4000	g.p.	70	1d6+4**	19
* Time to Don assumes assistance from another person. Double the time if donning alone. ** Time to Don assumes assistance from another person. Triple the time if donning alone.

Armor Descriptions

Generally, adding a shield to any of the armors listed in the table increases the armor class by 1. See Shields for more information on the defensive benefits of various shields.

Although there is some controversy historically over the different types of armor, all known or suspected types are included here.

Leather: This armor is made of leather hardened in boiling oil and then shaped into breastplate and shoulder protectors. The remainder of the suit is fashioned from more flexible, somewhat softer materials.

Padded: This is the simplest type of armor, fashioned from quilted layers of cloth and batting. It tends to get hot and after a time becomes foul with sweat, grime, lice, and fleas.

Studded leather: This armor is made from leather (not hardened as with normal leather armor) reinforced with close-set metal rivets. In some ways it is very similar to brigandine, although the spacing between each metal piece is greater.

Ring mail: This armor is an early (and less effective) form of chain mail in which metal rings are sewn directly to a leather backing instead of being interlaced. (Historians still debate whether this armor ever existed.)

Brigandine: This armor is made from small metal plates sewn or riveted to a layer of canvas or leather and protected by an outer layer of cloth. It is rather stiff and does not provide adequate protection to the joints where the metal plates must be spaced widely or left off.

Scale mail: This is a coat and leggings (and perhaps a separate skirt) of leather covered with overlapping pieces of metal, much like the scales of a fish.

Hide: This is armor prepared from the extremely thick hide of a creature (such as an elephant) or from multiple layers of regular leather. It is stiff and hard to move in.

Chain mail: This armor is made of interlocking metal rings. It is always worn with a layer of quilted fabric padding underneath to prevent painful chafing and to cushion the impact of blows. Several layers of mail are normally hung over vital areas. The links yield easily to blows, absorbing some of the shock. Most of the weight of this armor is carried on the shoulders and it is uncomfortable to wear for long periods of time.

Splint Mail: The existence of this armor has been questioned. It is claimed that the armor is made of narrow vertical strips riveted to a backing of leather and cloth padding. Since this is not flexible, the joints are protected by chain mail.

Banded: This armor is made of overlapping strips of metal sewn to a backing of leather and chain mail. Generally the strips cover only the more vulnerable areas, while the chain and leather protect the joints where freedom of movement must be ensured. Through straps and buckles, the weight is more or less evenly distributed.

Plate mail: This armor is a combination of chain or brigandine with metal plates (cuirass, epaulettes, elbow guards, gauntlets, tasets, and greaves) covering vital areas. The weight is distributed over the whole body and the whole thing is held together by buckles and straps. This is the most common form of heavy armor.

Field plate armor: This is the most common version of full plate armor, consisting of shaped and fitted metal plates riveted and interlocked to cover the entire body. It includes gauntlets, boots, and a visored helmet. A thick layer of padding must be worn underneath. However, the weight of the suit is well-distributed over the whole body. Such armor hampers movement only slightly. Aside from its expense, the main disadvantages are the lack of ventilation and the time required to put it on and take it off (see the "Getting Into and Out of Armor" section). Each suit of field plate must be individually fitted to its owner by a master armorer, although captured pieces can be resized to fit the new owner (unless such is patently absurd, such as a human trying to resize a halfling's armor).

Full Plate: This is the impressive, high Gothic-style armor of the Late Middle Ages and Renaissance. It is perfectly forged and fitted. All the plates are interlocking and carefully angled to deflect blows. The surfaces are normally highly ornamented with etching and inlaid metals. Each suit must be carefully custom-fitted to the owner and there is only a 20% chance that a captured suit can be refitted to a new owner of approximately the same size. The metal plates are backed by padding and chain mail. The weight is well-distributed. The armor is hot, slow to don, and extremely expensive. Due to these factors, it tends to be used more for parades and triumphs than actual combat.

In addition to the types of armor listed above, your DM may have special armors prepared from rare or exotic materials. Since it is highly unlikely that your character can afford these at the start, the DM will tell you when you need to know about such items.

Shields:

All shields improve a character's Armor Class by 1 or more against a specified number of attacks. A shield is useful only to protect the front and flanks of the user. Attacks from the rear or rear flanks cannot be blocked by a shield (exception: a shield slung across the back does help defend against rear attacks). The reference to the size of the shield is relative to the size of the character. Thus, a human's small shield would have all the effects of a medium shield when used by a gnome. All shields except for the small wooden shield are assumed to be reinforced by metal, at least around the rims.

A buckler (or target) is a very small shield that fastens on the forearm. It can be worn by crossbowmen and archers with no hindrance. Its small size enables it to protect against only one attack per melee round (of the user's choice), improving the character's Armor Class by 1 against that attack.

A small shield is carried on the forearm and gripped with the hand. Its light weight permits the user to carry other items in that hand (although he cannot use weapons). It can be used to protect against two frontal attacks of the user's choice.

Dave the druid carries a small wooden shield, and with it, he is AC 14. Without it, he is AC 13. It has been damaged twice before, when he is attacked by a orc. The orc needs an 14 to hit, but rolls a 13: The shield made the difference and prevented the hit! Now the shield has 3 damage; Dave rolls a d10 and gets a 2. The shield splinters under the blow from the orc.

The small wooden shield has the same effect as a small shield, but is vulnerable to attacks. Whenever a small wooden shield successfully but just barely defends against an attack[ IOW, the attack roll against the shield bearer was exactly 1 short of hitting ], the shield takes damage. The amount of damage should be kept track of on the character sheet. Each time it's damaged, roll a d10, and if the result is equal to or less than the amount of cumulative damage, the shield is rendered useless.

The medium shield is carried in the same manner as the small shield. Its weight prevents the character from using his shield hand for other purposes. With a medium shield, a character can protect against any frontal or flank attacks.

The large shield, also known as a body shield, is a massive shield reaching nearly from chin to toe. It must be firmly fastened to the forearm and the shield hand must grip it at all times. It provides a great deal of protection, improving the Armor Class of the character by 1 against melee attacks and by 2 against missile attacks, for attacks from the front or front flank sides. It is very heavy; the DM may wish to use the optional encumbrance system if he allows this shield.

Armor Sizes

The equipment list reflects the price of a suit of armor (including an appropriate helmet) made for any normal player character race. Although a halfling is much smaller than a human and needs a smaller suit, there are fewer armorers available to meet such specialized needs. Thus, the armor for a halfling is as expensive as that for a human. Armor for nonstandard sizes and shapes is going to cost significantly more and must be custom-made. This is not the kind of thing one can pick up at the local store!

When armor is found during the course of an adventure, the players should note the creature who wore the armor previously. While a human-sized character might be able to wear the armor of a gnoll, it will do little good for a halfling. Likewise, the armor of a giant is of little use to anyone.

Armor size also affects the weight of the armor, if the optional encumbrance system is used. The weights listed on the table are for human-sized (Medium) armors. Small armor weighs half the amount listed, while large armor weighs 50% more.

Getting Into and Out of Armor

There are times when it is important to know how quickly a character can get into or out of his armor. Accidents and unforeseen events happen all the time. The party is attacked at night. Those sleeping around the campfire may want to don their armor before rushing into battle. A character slips and falls into the river where his heavy armor pulls him down like a stone. He greatly desires to get it off before he drowns. Just how long does it take him?

The time required to don armor depends on its type. Those armors that are a single piece--leather tunics, robes, chain mail-- are quick to don with some assistance. Armor that is made of separate pieces require a longer time, again with assistance. Without help, the time required is doubled or tripled. See the Armor table above. In all cases, the times given assume that the proper undergarments and padding are also worn.

Sometimes characters need to get into armor in a hurry and thus, they dress hastily. This assumes that some buckles aren't fastened, seatings adjusted, etc. Single suits can be hastily donned in one round at the cost of 1 worse AC (though never worse than 12). Thus, a fighter could hastily pull on his brigandine jack (AC 14) and charge into a fray with an AC of 13. Hastily donning piece armor (plate mail for example) improves the character's AC by 1 (from a base of 10) for every round spent dressing. A fighter could choose to spend three rounds fitting on parts of his plate mail, giving him an AC of 13, before going into battle.

Removing armor is a much quicker matter. Most can be shed in a single round. Piece armor (particularly full plate) requires 1d4 + 1 rounds. However, if the character is willing to cut straps and bend pins, such armors can be removed in half the time (roll 1d4 + 1, divide by 2, then round fractions up).

Creatures with Natural Armor Classes

Some creatures possess a natural Armor Class already superior to some of the armor types (for example, the horse is AC 13). However, these creatures can still benefit from wearing armor of a quality worse than their natural Armor Class. If the AC of armor is equal to or worse than the AC of the creature, the AC of the creature improves by 1.

For example, a horse has a natural AC of 13. The AC of leather armor is 12, worse than the horse's natural AC. However, if a horse is fitted with leather barding, its AC increases to 14 since it gains the benefit of the additional protection.

Other Equipment

For all items in the above tables:
* These items weigh little individually. Ten of these items weigh one pound.
** These items have no appreciable weight and should not be considered for encumbrance unless hundreds are carried.

Equipment Descriptions

Not every piece of equipment is described here. The vast majority of things found on the equipment lists need no description, as their functions, forms, and purposes are obvious. Only those items whose use is obscure or appearance is unusual are described below. Specific game effects of equipment are given in the appropriate sections of the rules.

Miscellaneous Equipment

Holy Item: Holy items are small representations of all those things revered by religions--stars, crosses, hammers, rosaries, anointed oils, blessed wine, sacred teachings, and more. Just what constitutes a holy item depends on the campaign your character is in. All good holy items have similar effects on undead and other evil creatures, provided they are wielded by a follower of a belief associated with these items. Thus, rules that refer to holy symbols and holy water apply to all similar items, provided these items are specially prepared by the cleric's order.

Because of their special nature, holy items cannot normally be purchased. Different sects tend to protect the symbols of their faith to prevent their misuse or corruption. Therefore such items must be obtained through the auspices of a local congregation. This is not difficult for sincere followers of that faith, although requests for rare or unusual items must always be justified. Nonbelievers are given holy items only if there is a clear and present danger to the faith.

Lanterns: A hooded lantern (30-foot radius of light) is a standard lantern with shuttered or hinged sides. It is not directional, as its light is cast equally in all directions. A bullseye lantern (60-foot radius of light) has only a single shutter, the other sides being highly polished to reflect the light in a single direction. Both hooded and bullseye lanterns can be carried in one hand. A single flask of oil (one pint) burns for six hours in either.

The beacon lantern (240-foot radius of light) is a much larger affair and must be mounted on the prow of a ship, the bed of a wagon, or other large structure. It operates like the bullseye lantern but illuminates to a greater distance. The beacon goes through oil quickly, burning a flask every two hours.

Locks: Locks are still fairly primitive affairs (except for those complicated by the use of magic). All are worked with a large bulky key. Combination locks are virtually unknown at this time. As with most things, there are good, very complex locks as well as bad, easily opened locks.

Oil: Greek fire is a general name given to all highly flammable oils used in combat. (Historically, Greek fire was a special combination of oil and chemicals that was sticky and difficult to extinguish.) These oils are highly flammable and a little dangerous to carry. Lamp oil is used for lamps and lanterns. It is not particularly explosive although it can be used to feed an existing blaze.

Thieves' Picks: This is a small collection of tools useful to burglars. The kit includes one or more skeleton keys, long metal picks, a long-nosed clamp, a small hand saw, and a small wedge and hammer. These combined with some common tools (such as a crowbar) make up most of the special equipment a thief needs to perform his trade.

Tack and Harness

Barding: A war horse, or any animal trained for combat, is a considerable investment for the average warrior. Therefore, it behooves the owner to see that his mount is as well protected as possible. Other than avoiding risks, the best nonmagical protection is horse armor or barding. Barding is simply some type of armor fitted to be worn by the mount. Full barding covers the neck, chest, and body of the beast, while half barding covers the head, neck, chest, and front quarters. Barding can be made from many different materials; stouter types provide increasing protection according to the Armor Class of the construction. All of this, however, is at the expense of increased weight and lowered maneuverability of the mount. Plate barding, for example, is the equivalent of a warrior's field plate and is made of carefully interlocked plates and joints. It provides an Armor Class of 2 to the mount. It weighs at least 80 to 100 pounds at the lightest and thus, a fully equipped war horse with this armor can manage little more than a steady trot at top speed.

Barded animals also require special attention. Care must be taken to prevent chafing and sores. The mount cannot wear the armor indefinitely. It must be removed at night and ideally should not be worn except in preparation for a battle or tournament. Removing horse barding takes 15 minutes for leather and 30 minutes for metal armors. Fitting it on takes twice as long. The weight of barding is carefully distributed to account for the weight of the armor and the rider, so barded animals cannot be used as pack animals! It is normal practice to have a second mount for carrying gear and supplies.

When barding is fitted over a mount whose natural Armor Class is better than the barding, some protection is still gained. This is explained under "Armor" later in this chapter.

In addition to horses and elephants, it may be possible to fit barding on more fantastic mounts. Flying steeds can wear only leather or magical barding. Aquatic creatures cannot wear normal barding although extremely rare magical pieces may exist. Other land creatures can certainly be barded, provided your DM rules that they are sturdy enough to carry the weight of armor and rider. Camels, for instance, are seldom barded for this reason. A huge ostrich would not be able to carry barding, since its legs would not support the weight.

Saddles: There are two basic saddles--riding and pack. Riding saddles take many forms, but their basic purpose is to carry a person. If your DM has set his campaign in an ancient or early Medieval setting, saddles may be without stirrups. Ask your DM to be sure. Pack saddles are special frames designed to carry supplies and equipment. The only practical limit to how much a well-stowed pack saddle can carry is the carrying ability of the animal.

Transport

The ships below might be found in the campaign world, but are described in their (earthly) historical context for the edification of the reader.

Caravel: This ship was sailed in late Medieval/early Renaissance times and was the type of ship Columbus used to reach the New World. (It should be used only in late medieval settings.) It normally has two or three masts and square sails. No oars are used. The typical caravel is 70 feet long and 20 feet wide. The normal crew is from 30 to 40 men. The average cargo displacement is 150-200 tons.

Coaster: Also called a round ship, this is a small merchant ship that hugs the coasts. This is a sailing ship, fitted with two masts and triangular sails. The average size is 60 to 70 feet long and 20 feet wide. The rudder hangs from one side. The crew is 20 to 30 men, and the cargo capacity is about 100 tons. Normally there is only a small sterncastle. A coaster is slow and not tremendously seaworthy, but it can carry large amounts of cargo with smaller crews than galleys.

Cog: This ship is a larger, improved version of the coaster, able to make ventures into the open sea. Like the coaster, it is a sailing ship with one or two masts, but the cog employs square sails. It is about 75 to 90 feet long and 20 feet wide. The crew is only 18 to 20 men. There is normally one deck and fore- and sterncastle. the cargo capacities of cogs vary greatly, but the average is 100 to 200 tons.

Currach: This is an early, primitive vessel. It is made from thick hides stretched over a wood-and-wicker frame. A single mast caries a small square sail, but the currach is usually worked by oars. It is normally 20 to 40 feet long. the crew is approximately six to eight and the cargo space is limited--no more than five tons.

Drakkar: The largest of the Viking longships is known as a drakkar or dragonship. Built for war, this ship stretches about 100 feet in length. Although a single mast can be raised, oars provide the main source of power. The crew of 60 to 80 men rows, one man to an oar. Up to 160 additional man can be carried for boarding and raiding. Due to its great size, a drakkar is not very seaworthy. This and the fact there is no space on board for many supplies (certainly not enough for 240 men) or sleeping quarters keep the drakkar close to the coast where it can put in for the night. Because of its cost and limited use, a drakkar is usually built by kings and rulers and is not used for the mundane task of shipping cargo.

Dromond: This ship is the largest of the Byzantine galleys. Although it boasts one or two masts and triangular sails, the main power comes from the 100 oars, 50 to a side. These oars are divided into an upper and lower bank, with one man per oar on the lower bank and three men on the upper bank. Thus, the total crew is about 200 men. The dromond is about 130 to 175 feet long and 15 feet wide, making it a very slender ship. The cargo capacity is around 70 to 100 tons.

A dromond can be used both for shipping and war. As a warship, a ram projects from the front just above the water line. Castles are built fore, aft, and amidships as firing platforms. The cargo space is then taken up by marines. With such numbers of men, it is a very dangerous ship to attack. A dromond is not a seaworthy craft, however, and usually sails in sight of shore. They beach at night like all galleys, since supplies and sleeping accommodations are very limited.

Galleon: This is the largest and most advanced sailing ship that might be available in the AD&D game. It should appear only in Renaissance-period settings. It is a sail-driven ship with three or four masts. There are normally three through decks (running the length of the ship), while the castles fore and aft have two decks. The average size is about 130 feet long and 30 feet wide. Crews average about 130 men. Although cargo capacity is about 500 tons, a galleon is mainly used as a warship. (In the real world they were fitted with cannon, something beyond the standard AD&D game rules.) They can easily carry men equal to their tonnage, making capture by pirates nearly impossible.

Great Galley: Built during the Late Middle Ages, the great galley is an improved version of the dromond. It is slightly smaller than the dromond, about 130 feet long and 20 feet wide. The main power comes from 140 rowers, one man to an oar, but is supplemented by three masts; this combination gives it better speed and handling. The cargo capacity is 150 tons. When outfitted as a warship, the front end is built as a ram and marines are carried instead of cargo. Like all galleys, the great galley is a coastal vessel, rarely venturing into open water. It is not seaworthy in heavy storms and waits in port for these to pass.

Knarr: This small ship was a common cargo ship of the Scandinavian region. It is 50 to 75 feet long and 15 to 20 feet wide. It has a single mast and a square sail. In times of poor wind, a few oars at the bow and stern can provide more power. The crew ranges from eight to 14 men. The cargo capacity is small, anywhere from ten to 50 tons. The ship is, however, relatively seaworthy and can be used to make long sea voyages (although it cannot be called comfortable). Its flat bottom makes it useful for sailing up rivers and estuaries, and it can be beached easily.

Longship: This is the standard Viking warship. It is more substantial than the knarr but not nearly as massive as the drakkar. An average longship is 75 feet long with 20 to 25 oars per side. Each oar is worked by a single man for a total crew of 40 to 50 men. There is also a single mast and a square sail. In addition to the crew, the ship can carry 120 to 150 men. A longship can be used for shipping, but its cargo capacity is only about 50 tons. It is, however, fairly seaworthy and can sail across the open sea when necessary.